ANSM, France develops new method to detect phthalates in cosmetics

The National Agency for Medicines and Health Products Safety (ANSM) in France has developed a new method to trace all the phthalates simultaneously that are prohibited in cosmetics.

ANSM, responsible for monitoring and controlling cosmetic products marketed in France, has developed an analysis method that allows for the tracing and the measuring of twelve phthalates in the cosmetic products, reported premiumbeautynews.com.

According to the agency, the new method is based on gas chromatography, whose detection is done by mass spectrometry, which has been published in the Journal of Chromatography.

The agency said the European legislation prohibits eight phthalates, such as DBP, DEHP, BBP, DMEP, DNPP, Dipp, DPP, and DiBP, from being used in cosmetic products formulations.

Besides, phthalates, which form an especially wide family of molecules, remain widely used in several other industry sectors, in particular for manufacturing plastic products.

The agency has pointed out that phthalates molecules are not chemically bound to plastics.

They are likely to be released and can therefore contaminate cosmetics, either during the manufacturing process, or because of the contamination of certain raw materials, or as a result of a release from packaging into the formulation.

ANSM claims that with the new method, it is possible for the first time to explore twelve phthalates simultaneously, including the eight one that are prohibited by the European regulation on cosmetics, and to measure them.

Basing on the type of cosmetic tested, the detection limit of the twelve phthalates is comprised between 0.5 and 2.5 µg g-1.

The agency said the new method is currently applied in its laboratories and has been presented to the Technical Committee 392 of the European Standardisation Committee (CEN TC 392), as a future European standard.

The agency is also aiming to use the new method as a base for the development of similar process suitable for the detection of phthalates in other health products, such as some medical devices.