Clariant goes to the roots of beauty to develop new active ingredients

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Clariant Active Ingredients (Clariant) unveiled its RetroFuture cosmetics range using time-tested traditional herbal ingredients, which are used in beauty concoctions in Traditional Chinese Medicine and Indian Ayurveda, among others.

The company launched three products under the range, Nourishing Hand Mask, D-Stress Jelly Face Serum, and Thin to Thick Skin Oil, claimed to be enriched with biological active ingredients sourced sustainably from plant roots. For instance, D-Stress Jelly Face Serum is infused with Prenylium, a bioactive ingredient with the potential to preserve and boost collagen in skin, derived from the roots of Mulberry trees. Similarly, Nourishing Hand Mask is formulated with Korean red ginseng extract which is claimed to counter UV oxidation of skin cells. Thin to Thick Skin Oil contains an extract from Luffa Cylindrica roots that is claimed to promote multiplication of skin cells.

Ingredients with ancient/traditional origins can serve as a comfort factor at a time when consumers yearn for anchors from the past amid the uncertainty triggered by the global pandemic.

Clariant cites research studies revealing that the roots of certain plants contain an array of powerful biological active compounds known as secondary metabolites, which shield the plant from the microbial attacks and environmental stress, and have significant cosmetic applications.

Instead of uprooting the entire crop just to harvest the roots, Clariant mobilises these bioactives in a sustainable manner by leveraging ’Plant Milking’ technology from partner company Plant Advanced Technologies (PAT). PAT employs ‘aeroponics’, a cultivation technique in which plant roots dangle in air instead of being buried in soil, water or other growth mediums, and nutrients are sprayed on to the roots. The closed loop aeroponics system minimises the usage of land, water and pesticides; boosts the concentration of the required secondary metabolites in the roots; and allows multiple harvests of roots without destroying the whole crop.

As a brand that limits deforestation and preserves biodiversity, Clariant’s RetroFuture portfolio can attract a strong following in Asia-Pacific, given that *79% of respondents from the region said they were willing to pay more for products and services that espouse environment protection causes.

Clariant highlights the high traceability of its entire production process from farm-to-face. This can appeal to *41% of Asia-Pacific consumers who consider knowing about ingredients and their source a top priority or more important than before the Covid-19 pandemic, when purchasing products for the household (excluding food and drinks).

The worldwide spread of the pandemic has led consumers to become more conscious about the impact of products and brands on their environment. Therefore, sustainability is poised to emerge as a key success factor for beauty brands in the region, implying the need for cosmetics manufacturers to build a circular value chain for every aspect of production, from ingredient-sourcing to packaging.

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